In “The Contemporary African Kitchen,” 22 chefs explore traditional and inventive approaches to African cuisine.
African cuisine doesn’t get the credit it deserves. The Contemporary African Kitchen, a new cookbook from Alexander Smalls and co-author Nina Oduro, is positioned to help change that.
As the book launches into the world, we chatted with Oduro about some of her favorite recipes it holds and the book’s significance. You can find our Q&A below, but first, a little more context on the book.
It features recipes from 22 chefs, “all of whom were born or raised across the continent” and representing every region of Africa. Each recipe notes where it hails from, making it easy for readers to identify its roots and understand some of the continent’s vast complexity.
Exploring African Cuisine’s Diversity
All too often, outsiders view the African continent as a monolith. But with 1.4 billion people speaking more than 2,000 languages in 55 distinct countries, it’s anything but. For Americans, food is often how we first encounter cultures other than our own, and there are startlingly few places in the U.S. to try food from anywhere in Africa.
For Americans with African ancestry, “these dishes are kinship on a page” and represent “a collection of dishes rooted in ancestral linkage, yet awakened with modern flair.”
“Our culture has been kept alive in great part through our culinary currency and traditions,” the book’s intro reads.
Some dishes will be recognizable to a broad range of Americans, regardless of ancestry. A collard greens recipe from Kenya, deviled eggs or banana pudding from Ethiopia, candied sweet potatoes from Zambia, and mashed potatoes and spinach from South Africa underscore how African cuisine and culinary traditions and ingredients have influenced American palates for centuries.
Other recipes may be new to you, from the Buttered Bambara with Vegetables, Rodo Oil, and Toasted Egusi Relish hailing from Nigeria to the Millet Crinkle Scones from Ghana. Some showcase influences from other parts of the world, like the Indian influences on Eastern Africa in particular with dishes like the Ugandan chicken biryani.
Related: Explore more African recipes from across the continent on our site.
What this book does so masterfully is demonstrate the depth, richness, and diversity of modern African cuisine. There’s a simple, quick, and bright Salade St. Fabien from Burundi made with diced tomatoes, avocados, cucumbers, carrots, and olives dressed with lime juice and Dijon mustard that I could see sweeping restaurants. The Puff Puff — a fried flour, yeast, water, and sugar bite that is “an essential for any gathering in Cameroon” — is among several other comforting options. And there are plenty of hearty options, too, like “South Africa’s best-loved party dish” Braai, or fire-grilled meat.
Some dishes are more classic, like an Egyptian Okra Stew, while others are more innovative and current, such as the Omo Too Arancini from Ghana. (Our thanks to the authors and their publisher for letting us share the book’s Scallops with Hibiscus Sauce recipe with you!)
My point? This cookbook makes it impossible to ignore or deny the breadth and significance of contemporary African cuisine, while also putting it within reach of a much broader audience that — in many parts of the world, including the United States — has far too little access to it.
You might recognize The Contemporary African Kitchen author Alexander Smalls from shows like Top Chef, The Chew, and Throwdown with Bobby Flay, or the cover of magazines like Food & Wine. He’s also a restaurant owner and James Beard Foundation Award-winning chef.
His co-author, Nina Oduro, is the co-founder and CEO of Dine Diaspora, which “connects people and brands to African diaspora food culture.” She was named to the Future of Ghana’s 30 Under 30 and as a 2020 “Change-Maker in Washington, D.C.’s Food System” by Washington City Paper.
Q&A with Co-Author Nina Oduro
Food Fanatic had the chance to ask Oduro a couple of questions related to the book. Here is the complete, unedited exchange.
1. Is there a recipe in here you find yourself turning to most often, and why?
I’m always on the move, so quick, flavorful recipes are a lifesaver. While I love crafting delicious meals, I appreciate it even more when I can make something delectable in under 20 minutes. That’s why I gravitate toward Chef Rbia Zalon’s Kenyan salsa (kachumbari), Zein Abdallah’s chapati with omelet (known as rolex in Uganda), and Nana Araba Wilmot’s vibrant Ghana salad.
My love for kachumbari blossomed during my visits to Kenya and in the homes of my Kenyan friends in Washington, DC. The combination of fresh vegetables is a perfect complement to any main dish. As for the rolex, I first experienced it on the bustling streets of Kampala, Uganda — quick, hearty, and packed with flavor, it’s the ideal grab-and-go meal. And of course, I can’t forget the Ghana salad from my own homeland. Bursting with fresh ingredients like fish and eggs — because no true Ghanaian dish is complete without the iconic egg—it’s a staple that brings me back to my roots.
2. While representing a broad range of contributors, I’m guessing some of these dishes hold particular resonance, memories, or emotions for you. Could you tell me about one of them?
There’s nothing that brings me more joy than a warm, perfectly browned puff puff — or donut, as Agatha Achindu’s recipe shows. In Ghana, we call it brofot, and for me, it’s much more than just a snack. It’s a gateway to memories, both simple and profound. I think of the tiny, bite-sized ones at family gatherings and the massive, hand-sized versions I’d savor on the streets of Cape Coast. As a child, puff puff was my quiet companion — silencing me as I bit into the hot, fluffy dough, with oil lightly seeping onto my fingertips. The memory of sinking my teeth into that soft, fried dough is pure joy.
3. If you could pick just three of these recipes to have for your birthday, what would you choose and why?
For my birthday menu, there’s no question it would feature Sophia Teshome’s berbere-spiced orange margarita with Gojam honey, Agness Colley’s scallops in hibiscus sauce, and Alfonso Videira’s goat and chicken gizzards pithivier. The bold, Ethiopian-spiced margarita is the perfect way to kick off any celebration, bringing just the right mix of heat and sweetness to get the party started. As a seafood lover, the delicate scallops, infused with the floral aroma of hibiscus, are irresistible. And then there’s the pithivier — an exceptional, flavor-packed dish made with a zero-waste approach that perfectly reflects my commitment to sustainability.
4. The book’s introduction discusses the power and significance of legacy. What do you hope its legacy is?
I hope the legacy this book leaves is that African food is truly global — deserving a place in every kitchen, from modest homes to fine-dining restaurants. I also hope that the culinarians who create these remarkable dishes every day receive the recognition they’ve long deserved. Their work not only pays homage to tradition but pushes the boundaries of innovation, showcasing the diversity and brilliance of African food on the world stage.
Learn more about modern African cuisine and explore these mouth-watering recipes in The Contemporary African Kitchen cookbook!